No, I am not Marie Antoinette, but I do behead my succulent plants.  Before you call the authorities, please let me explain.  As you probably know, I love succulents.  And as you also probably know, succulents can become leggy.  So, here’s the solution along with a perk!

If you have non-cold hardy (soft) succulents, they may grow beautiful rosettes during the summer.  But when the cold weather approaches and it’s time to bring them inside, you face a dilemma—"what to do with the beautiful rosettes on a long stem?”.

You have two options.  You can leave the leggy stem and rosette intact, or you can take out the tools for the decapitation.  That sounds so cruel, but it really isn’t.  Think about your summer perennials.  They always look better after you deadhead the spent flowers, and basically that is what you are doing with your succulents.  Additionally, you will be gaining a new plant from this surgical procedure.

The newly-cut rosette will become a new plant.  You will have two, or you can share one with a friend.  After beheading your succulent, simply lay it in a brightly-lighted area for at least 4-5 days to allow the newly cut area to callous.  Then you can plant it directly into a pot of well-draining succulent mix.

Alternately, you can place it in a decorative bowl or pot filled with pebbles and use it as a decorative plant in your home.  I used one in this way for about six weeks.  At the conclusion, the cutting had begun to root, and I then placed it in a pot of succulent soil.

Succulents like to be dry.  When friends tell me they cannot grow succulents, I usually respond that “they love them to death.”  In their zeal to help the succulents live, they overwater and/or don't give them enough light.

So, give beheading (your succulents) a try.  I think you will be pleased.

 

With several hundred existing species, there’s a lot to like about Hibiscus.  Whether they are short or tall, annual or perennial, fancy or plain, we all have our favorites.  One of my favorites is the frilly Hibiscus schizopetalus.

Hibiscus are versatile; some can be grown either in soil or in water.  For example, the perennial Texas Star Hibiscus (Hibiscus coccineus) is quite happy in our Dallas clay soil, but it is equally happy as a water plant in a pond.

Some Hibiscus flowers such as Lord Baltimore can measure 10 inches across.  Give these beauties a little extra water in the summer months, and they will reward you with plentiful blooms.  

Hibiscus can be propagated in two different ways.  The first (taking vegetive cuttings) should be done in early summer.  Taking 4 to 6 inch cuttings and rooting them in 50/50 potting soil/perlite with extra moisture is not difficult.  If you have not tried this method, there are numerous videos online which may be useful.  If your Hibiscus is an annual, you should try this method.  Of course if you have space, you can always bring the plant inside for the winter.  

The second method is by planting mature seeds.  Do not pick the seed pods until they are brown and dry.  Remember, too, that some seeds may not be viable.  Also, some seeds do not reproduce true offspring.  After you have taken the seeds from the pods, place them in a glass of water.  Those seeds which float are probably not viable; the ones that sink should be fine.  Then heat about a cup of water to near-boiling.  Toss the seeds into the hot water and allow them to soak for 12 to 24 hours.  The seeds are then ready to plant.  Cover the seeds with about ¼ inch fine soil.  Keep the soil moist in a warm area (75 to 85 degrees).  The seeds should germinate in about two weeks.  New seedlings (even those which are perennial) must be protected from frost.  Seedlings should be moved into larger pots as they mature.

When you plant your mature Hibiscus outside, as with most plants, mulching around the base is important.  A layer of about 3 inches of mulch will help maintain moisture during the summer and keep the roots healthy during the winter.  It will also add nutrients to the soil and help prevent weeds from emerging in the spring.

Unfortunately, several garden pests also like Hibiscus, so be vigilant with an application of insecticidal soap or neem at the first sign of uninvited guests.  Pruning to shape your plant can be done anytime, but save the heavy pruning for late winter.  Cut the plant back to nearly ground level.  They like hot weather, so do not despair in the spring when they do not show life until April or May.  The phrase “some like it hot” truly applies to Hibiscus.  

So find a sunny spot in your garden, and add some fun with the perfect Hibiscus! 😊

 

Scarifying Seeds  🎃

It may sound like Halloween, but scarifying seeds has nothing to do with the 'trick or treat' frenzy.  If you have ever tried and failed to germinate a large, dense seed, it may be that you should have scarified it.  All seeds have a coat to protect the seed embryo; however, some seeds have a very thick, hard coat.  Those seeds in nature may take years to germinate.  Some seeds are eaten by birds, and the acidic digestive juices help break down this coating.  Other seeds may go thru one or more seasons of freezing and thawing in order to break the covering.  Below are Texas Ebony seed pods.  The dried pod is as hard as some wood, and the seed is almost equally hard.

So how can you germinate these seeds without waiting for years?  First, remove the seeds from the pods.  Then you should determine which end of the seed has the remnant of attachment.  Next you should concentrate on scarifying (scratching) the opposite end.  Scarifying can be accomplished in several ways.  I prefer using some form of sandpaper, emery board, or some similar abrasive object.  The goal is to just file enough to break thru the seed coating.  There is generally a difference in color between the seed coat and the internal part of the seed.  You should not abrase it too deeply; you may harm the seed embryo.  If you look closely, you can see a small, scarified area that is slightly lighter on the seed below.  I scratched it with an emery board.  That scarified area will allow the water to penetrate the seed coat.  

Once you have completed this step, you should soak the seeds in water for about 24 hours.  During this time, you may observe the seed swell slightly (a good sign).  Water must penetrate the seed coat for germination to occur.  (Hint: generally, if the seeds sink to the bottom of the water container, they are viable; if they do not sink, they probably are not viable.)  Finally, the seed will be directly planted in a  pot and be kept in the greenhouse over the winter as it germinates.  

 

Next time I will discuss how to propagate Hibiscus plants from seeds. 😊